Marzipan in Lübeck

Today everyone is agreed that Lübeck cannot be regarded as the place of origin of marzipan. The mere fact that, not surprisingly, almond trees are lacking in our northern regions, is enough to indicate that the origin should be sought elsewhere. Nevertheless, the fame of Lübeck marzipan has resulted in attempts to ascribe to Lübeck the origin of this confection.

The route and date by which marzipan first reached Germany, and Lübeck in particular, cannot be determined exactly even today. Its origin is surrounded by a great variety of tales, some of them particularly quaint.

With unfailing regularity, Christmas news stories repeat the legend of the Lübeck famine of 1407, which is said to have led to the invention of Marcus bread, or Marci panis. When in 1407 there was no more grain, the Senate is said to have instructed the bakers to make a bread using the supplies of almonds stored in the warehouses. However, this wandering legend has appeared in every place which was later intensively engaged in the production of the coveted delicacy: in Venice, Turin, Florence, Erfurt and Königsberg; only the date varies.

In contrast, other old records claim that the recipe for marzipan found its way directly to a Lübeck merchant, by way of Italy. However, this account cannot be documented or verified, any more than can a multitude of other tales and legends.
The guild rules, which later also separated the areas of responsibility of the apothecary and the confectioner, give some insight into the status of marzipan. The Lübeck guild regulations of 1530, which controlled the sale of spices and pharmaceuticals, state the following: "Thom vofften scholen de kremer nich vorkopen by groter offte kleiner gewichte groth confect als ys canneel confect, enghever confect, negelken confect, cardamonen confect, martzapeaen etc., sundern laden krudt scholen se vorkopen, als coriander unde mandelen." ("Fifthly, the merchants are not to sell in large or small quantities finished confectionery such as cinnamon confections, ginger confections, clove confections, cardamom confections, marzipan, etc., but are to sell only unprocessed spices such as coriander and almonds.") This first mention of marzipan in the Hanseatic city was later followed by the financial records for the Hanseatic Diets of 1598 - 1617. Under the heading: "What has been expended on confectionery, since the Hanseatic cities have been together", the confectionery for each day is listed.

Almonds, the basic raw material for marzipan, are thought to have been imported to Lübeck as early as the 13th century. Almond imports appear in the old financial accounts of the Hanseatic city of Lübeck, beginning in the 16th century. The first "trials" for the production of marzipan are documented in the Lübeck archives from this period. As a scarce sweet food, at that time marzipan was regarded as having medicinal properties. Therefore in the 16th century, the apothecaries had the exclusive responsibility of producing this "speciality" in small amounts. The retailers were forbidden to produce marzipan; they were permitted to trade only in the raw materials.

Naturally the nobility were also aware of the costliness of marzipan, and arranged for it to be served as a dessert at princely tables. However, the "people" were generally prevented from obtaining this delicacy (apart from those for whom marzipan was prescribed as a medicine, due to illness).

Nevertheless, it would appear that the quality of this confection could not compare with that which has contributed to the world fame of Lübeck marzipan. At that time sugar, other sweets, and spices were exceptional, precious goods, with the result that those to whom these ingredients were available used them lavishly, as a display of wealth.

Not until beet sugar was produced, toward the end of the 18th century, was it possible to offer marzipan at affordable prices. This was also the time when the apothecaries began to lose their monopoly. At first it was the confectioners who concerned themselves with the production of marzipan and who provided this delicacy primarily on festival days.

Toward the middle of the 19th century, the production of marzipan was also industrialised. The associated economical manufacture contributed to making marzipan a delicacy that was finally affordable for everyone. It was at last possible to supply marzipan to the market in larger quantities than could previously be achieved by the small confectionery shops.

CARSTENS LÜBECKER MARZIPAN, founded by Mrs Charlotte Erasmi in 1845, was one of the first industrial suppliers of Lübeck marzipan.

It has always been a key concern of the people of Lübeck to produce a very special quality of marzipan. This is the reason that the place of origin, Lübeck, is always named in connection with the marzipan.

Thus, for instance, on 10 August 1874, our company founder Mrs Charlotte Erasmi was granted the title of supplier to the imperial court.

The consistent quality of Lübeck marzipan is thus also the guarantee for the success of this premium product. Even today, the recipes are based on time-honoured traditions.